The wind did indeed do something different. It went light and variable so nothing to stop the wobble from the left over chop as Tutak headed out across the Bay of Tears. Never heard it called that before, well they must be harvesting barley or cooking something nice in Middlesborough, 'cause my eyes were streaming. The nose wasn't too good either. Out past Sunderland, Seaham and Hartlepool and I counted 14 ships anchored off the river Tees and a further 10 inside, according to the AIS. This one had the prettiest stern by far for such a big girl.
I eventually spied the Potash mine atop the cliffs which can point the way to Staithes, but not today.
We ran on past Runswick bay which in the past has provided us with shelter.
Until we picked up the distinctive towers of the Metropole Apartments on Whitby's West Cliff.
Which told us we were getting close to Whitby's enticing breakwaters.
Once those pincer like structures have you in their grasp there is no getting away. Hotel California has nothing on Whitby, famed for its harbour rot.
You may remember the last visit to this place was enforced by spar repairs, but there was still the urgency to crack on for the visitor arrival date in Orkney. So not much viewing was done, at least not peacefully. So with sun and warmth we set off to explore the delights of Cook's town and the river Esk. We didn't go far mind, the old legs can't do "far" anymore.
I knew there was a station in the town and not very far away and, judging by the tooting and chuffing, it was steam too. Many years ago my brother would take me spotting with Ian Allen's books of numbers that would be dutifully underlined.
The line is rather quaint and yesteryear as it disappears up the Esk valley.
But turn round and we have the terminus station of Whitby with the new roof of the Co-op on the right. Handy victuals for the town marina.
Steam takes its passengers several times a day I think. The distinctive noise of the engines is a giveaway.
This one is The Green Knight. A 4-6-0 class 4MT in British Railways livery, it was born before me in 1954.
Here waiting for the pointsman to catch up after switching lines out of the station.
On the other side of the river is a ship yard which seems to thrive. It has a floating dry dock alongside the wharf. The blue and white vessel is a fishing boat down from Shetland for some work. We saw her swinging her compass just upstream of the town bridge.
The one behind grabbed my attention. I had been looking to build a similar size and class of vessel but I ended up building the Dutch Barge Lookalike instead. Cost and transport were major factors against it but I still rather like the type, Portuguese bridge and all.
With the legs about to expire the dinghy was inflated with the intention of taking to the water for further exploration. The belows of the dinghy were original and had seen far better days. For every pump one seems to loose two and it was getting beyond a joke to even consider blowing it up for pleasure let alone an emergency. The legs were pressed into service one more and the short walk to Coates Marine. The ones who were rather helpful with the repairs on the last visit.
A good look round produced a Bravo2 pump. I remember selling this type quite a few years ago. Robust they are and have a good capacity to make puffing quick but not too big as to make it an effort. Twenty three golden coins were given, which I was more than happy with. Once returned on board the inflatable was inflated so quickly I wondered why I hadn't bought a new pump years ago. Sometimes I am soooooh cheap.
Anyway with the flubber gassed up and the Tohatsu 3.5 smoker gassed up too, we set off up river whilst the tide was still high.
It is remarkably pretty and tranquil from the water. And farther up in the gorge there is no room for houses.
Further downstream, just before the town bridge, hordes of holidaymakers thronged the quays, crabbing or waiting for the trip boats. They were plying up and down the river as the entrance was impassable with the swell.
Talking of which, we slipped under the bridge and out through the inner harbour to check on this infamous swell.
Yep, it's definitely there. If I had had my kayak with me I might have given it a go but I haven't done much white water rafting in the little Compass 'flatable.
I reckon a 2 metre swell: the trouble is further out as it is moderated in the harbour by the defences. It can be wall to wall white water over the shallows and the run in is quite a distance. Get it wrong and you're toast, damp toast, but still toast. When the locals attempt the entrance or the fishing boats are working then I reckon it's OK. I thought it was worth a go but the local "knowledge" was no!
With the dinghy usable now a trip across the river for a meal at the Middle Earth Tavern was planned. A trip in the tender saves many strides on the old legs but upon arrival there was no food. The tidal surge trashed the waterside rather badly in 2013 and the kitchens hadn't been fixed yet. They said they would be ready for next year but I said I couldn't wait that long. I had to get my calories from beer instead and it got bit messy later on after returning to the other side and ending the evening in the Station Inn.
I tried to walk off the delicate head the following day with a look at the weir just off the upstream end of the long marina pontoons. Low water shows what was once a ford I think, as the roads go down to the water at either side.
You can see it better on this one. I had been worried about taking Tutak any further up but I don't think it would be a problem.
The harbour master, bridge keepers and marina staff were all most helpful. Council run, they probably struggle with funding but the facilities were 95% fine. My only criticism would be one of the men's showers where the water pools and gets a bit foul. That is being picky because they were far better that most and a squeegee or a mop would have cured it.
It had been fine and windless for a couple of days but the CCTV on the entrance (viewable from the marina office) still had some big water. It was coming from the gales on the other side of the North Sea. Eventually it all calmed down overnight and even the trip boats were venturing out with the "Endeavour" bound for Sandend on the other side of the bay.
We said goodbye to Whitby using the Standard Horizon VHF public address facility. Cheers and waves from the assembled crowds but it did give the bridge keeper a start.
Once clear of the rocks we were able to set a course to follow the coast towards Scarborough. Canvas and the forecast wind of NE 4-5 would have made the journey comfortable but the actual force 2 - 3 had us rolling about with the compass swinging as wildly as the masts. The sea hadn't calmed down that much!
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