Long haul, but I didn't mean to.

The weather patterns were suggesting inconvenient winds for the foreseeable future.  I didn't want to be hostage to Peterhead forever, despite its charms, so something had to be done.  We decided to accept the contrary winds and headed out, well out, bound south, for perhaps Montrose or Arbroath.  Both were about 14 -16 hours away, maybe a bit less.  We needed to get there for around high water as Arbroath dries and Montrose can have a wicked ebb up the river.  That meant climbing out of bed at an early hour for me and we aimed to leave the berth at 07:15hrs.  Billy at the marina was his usual very helpful and friendly self.  On a nice day Peterhead is worth a look round if you can face the walk round the bay to get there.  The port is busy, these are the ships at the South Base on our way out.  There is the North Base and several smaller inter-linked harbours at the North end of the bay.















I digress.  The intention was to head out to sea to avoid the nastiness that sailing inshore can provide from the hills inland.  You can get some contrary winds and what should be a fetch turns into an "on the nose" brute.  We ended up about 36nm offshore in the end as the conditions weren't that bad and I wound on revolutions for wave busting.  Tutak is not a fine entry vessel and any wave or ripple lifts her buxom bows and she slows down.  To counteract this we went for a close sheeted main and maximum continuous engine revs and we were able to make significant progress against wind and tide plus a bit more with the tide with us.  Although the waves did steepen a bit with wind over tide but hey.  We had around 20 knots over the deck all day, and night as it happened.

With the wind being on the nose I had expected it to be uncomfortable and tiring even with the comfy seat.  The sea state was supposed to be moderate and I guess it was but it wasn't a lumpy moderate if you see what I mean.  Anyway we were feeling good and I did a few calcs and had a look at where we could go if we carried on.  A straight line from Peterhead to the south took us straight to Lindisfarne.  That was a stroke of luck, no Firth of Forth to negotiate and only another eight hours.  We still had the options of Montrose, Arbroath and Eyemouth if we needed to.

So we punched our way south and dropped anchor under the Heugh of Lindisfarne at seven in the morning.  123 miles in just under 24hrs gave us an average of a little over 5kn.  Well done Tutak.



Naturally I needed a rest so I hibernated for a few days and when the sun eventually came out I puffed up the old dinghy and rowed to the magic island.  Cresting the path from the beach up the cliff I was faced with foreign hordes.  I did think about turning back but I needed to post the card for the boy Jack.  Lindisfarne is obviously a busy place despite its meagre population.  Coachloads of folk must be brought over the causeway at low tide,


to view the peaceful magnificence of the island, the ruined abbey,
 

 and the fairytale castle.
 

To be honest is probably wasn't that bad but the ant like chain making their way to the castle wasn't for me.  I posted the card at the post office which was queueing out of the door and headed for the west shore out of the wind.  I found a metal bench near a well overlooking St Cuthbert's island,
 

where the wildlife carried on their duties regardless.  Out came the book about Arnhem and the afternoon was taken up with sun and words.


When the sun had had enough I trundled up the Heugh to find the anchorage had swelled in number a little.




Meet Bob, he spent the whole evening after sunset scratching his back on Tutak's bottom.  It was a little unsettling at first until I sorted out what was going on.



Our time at Lindisfarne was coming to an end.  The weather was due to change and the anchorage would become uncomfortable especially with springs on their way.  The tide runs hard through the gutways round here.  We were to set sail for a nice amble to Amble, a very nice 5 hours away with the tide with us all the way.  What more could one want apart from the wind not being on the nose.

We managed a good look at the castle on the way out.  The rocks in the foreground are the Stone Ridge which cover.  The upturned boats used as sheds can be seen too, along with the lime kiln with the different styles of arch.

 
 

And here we have the Old Law Beacons which line up to lead you to the Triton buoy where you make the turn to line up the Heugh Beacon with the Belfry.  I notice they are doing some something on the aft Law beacon.  

 

So once past the Triton buoy we turn into Skate Roads, avoiding the rocks of Parton Steel, on towards the Inner Sound which separates the Farne Islands from the mainland.  We pass Bamburgh Castle, larger than Lindisfarne by some measure.  Mind Lindisfarne only has eleven rooms, peedie by comparison.
 

A close up with the Cannon 24X digital zoom shows detail but the image stabiliser struggles to get a grip on a boat!




 By the time we get to the Inner Sound the tide is hustling through the narrows and we just manage to get a shot of the lighthouses on the Inner Farne.  The old stone square light tower light to port of the modern round tower.


The white on the cliffs is guano not the colour of the rock.  We end up in the river Coquet at high water or a little after and pull up for some fuel in the Amble marina where I am greeted like an old friend.  They do say it is a friendly place.  Here we will stay to wash and clean, the boat and myself, shop too for victuals and trinkets for Tutak perhaps.  I need a new tap washer and a descent pump for the dinghy wouldn't go amiss.