The is a song from my youth about fog on the Tyne by a band called Lindisfarne. Wasn't the bass drum hit with a rubber fish on TOTPs? So we turned in between the Tyne's massive breakwaters and up river past the fish quay and the Tyne ferry berth, calling the Royal Quays as we did, informing them of our need of bunkers. Calling from the ferry berth means they have time to prepare for the long walk from the marina office to the fuel berth in the river.
A very pleasant chap from Royal Quays came to give Tutak a drink and we had a lovely chat, especially as he used to drive the crane at the marina. They have a travel hoist now but we talked cranes, you know how it is. Tutak had been quite careful with her fuel and the fair winds had helped I guess as we had managed a fair bit of un-motor sailing.
The Marina is set in the old Albert Edward dock has that feel about it with the cruise terminal alongside. The best thing about the fuel berth is that it is 24hrs, but beware the nozzle is large and it dumps it in pretty quick and you need to be switched on not nattering about cranes.
We went back downriver past the ferry on the other side now. Doesn't she look sweet, I reckon I want one to make into a rather nice home. Past the red tower, so distinctive, marking the start of the narrows.
Swell and wind direction dictated that we anchor on the North Shields side this time, but I don't think it made that much difference. It was a bit rolly but mainly from the wash of small vessels.
The Nautica made her departure as the sun set over our anchorage under the ruins of the old priory.
The morning had us hauling the chain in and making sail before breakfast. We had to dodge a couple of salmon nets off Coquet island but this year the fishermen were very polite and we all got on fine.
Bringing the lighthouse on the inner Farne abeam we laid a course for the entrance to Lindisfarne harbour instead of our normal dogleg out to sea. This was our first time to Holy Island and I was looking forward to it, it's good to try new places. There are a couple of sets of leading marks to bring you in. You alter course from one to the other as they line up, sweet. One set are these monolith like structures.
The anchorage is superb and was very settled. In strong winds from some directions it can get a bit bumpy but that night was truly magical. With the brilliant sunset and the fairytale castle gave it a certain something.
I was going to stay there for a day or so but the weather window said now so we went. We took the Mouse Hole exit underneath the castle and past the old lime kilns, laying a course for St. Abb's head. On the way back with no deadline I would like to stay and have a proper look round like I did on the Farnes a couple of years ago.
Eyemouth we passed and then St. Abb's.
Where we altered course a wee bit for the crossing of the firth of Forth for Anstruthers.
Bass rock lined up with another monster on the mainland.
We had a cracking if boisterous sail across the firth but it dawned on be that this was going to be a lee shore and the swell had built steadily during the day with wind from the southeast. The entrance was a little awkward as the waves tried to surf you sideways as you aim for a wee gap in the harbour wall perpendicular to the wave direction. Of course I should have set the camera up for filming but......
Perfect shelter once inside we tied up to a fishing boat in the outer harbour to investigate the inner. Local information had it that there had been some dredging and I was OK for us to voyage into the inner sanctum and alongside the pontoon. This harbour does dry and I woke in the morning sleeping on the side of the boat. Soft bottom mind.
We left at seven the following morning as the forecast said the strong winds were going to be south of Montrose later. Later we should be well north of Montrose so off we went scraping the bottom. I was told there were plenty of pots to look out for, yeah I know, no he said, I mean there are a lot. He was right, we are used to plenty of pot markers but this looked like someone had emptied a children's ball pit into the sea.
We past these houses on Fife Ness as we rounded as close inshore as I dared as the tide should be covering any hard sticky up things called rocks and set a course for Peterhead 78nm away. Our course was North East and the wind was from the North East. The wind at this point was light so with just the main up we motored into the sea, no worries. Then it got misty and then it got foggy and then I put the fog horn on and it wailed for a few hours. Bell rock came and went but we never caught glimpse.
By Scurdie Ness the wind had filled in and blown the fog bank south and another boat that had left Arbroath earlier reported that they were heading back in due to the fog. We were struggling now and were motor tacking with the main and mizzen at 20 degrees apparent. This is good as it takes some of the sting out of the waves and allows the sails to stabilise the boat and give another half a knot. By Stonehaven it was 22 knots apparent and I put the seat belt on and adjusted the suspension settings on my seat. By Aberdeen it had reached 40 knots....... no it had started to settle down for the night and not long after the sails came down along with the sea state and we were able to motor straight into it. We made Peterhead at 4 in the morning having left at seven the previous morning, all that tacking had put an extra 14nm on the bill. I love Peterhead, a port of refuge for the tired sailor with a safe entrance a calm berth.
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