We have made it up here in plenty of time for meeting the aeroplane on the 25th June, five days early. After another early morning departure we set a course across the tail of the Pentland Firth. There is a wee bit of offset to account for as we were near springs but the sea state was almost smooth.
We managed a bit of a shortcut past the Pentland Skerries, dodged a couple of ships and headed north up the east shore of South Ronaldsay and into Holm sound. We dropped the hook in East Weddel Sound by the Churchill barriers protecting Scapa flow from the Hun.
The blockships are falling apart now and there must be scrap all over the sea bed so don't get too close, oops!
We had a bit of breakfast and a kip and then settled down to watch the qualifying for the Austrian Grand Prix. Bugger, couldn't get a signal. A quick check with the tidal stream atlas for Orkney told us if we got a move on we could just get through the Copinsay Pass and round Mull head before the roost became offensive. Three hours later we were again anchored, this time in the Bay of Meils. The rain got heavier and heavier and eventually turned into fog. Several leaks were found such was the penetrating effect of the drizzle!
Through the mist this raft of birds emerged.
And a friendly gull kept watch.
Signal was great in the bay. During the night the wind blew but the new extra heavy Delta anchor didn't move and inch. Not that the old one did either but and unfortunate incident meant that it had to be replaced.
The rain and wind continued the following day and things had to be done with the leaks. I was running out of water collection utensils. After getting rather wet and cold the leaks were reduced or stopped for the most part. In the grand prix Rosberg got the jump on Hamilton which made a change.
I had to get somewhere to do some clothes shopping, I didn't pack for winter. Kirkwall was just round the corner, about 5 miles so great effort was expended in retrieving a well dug in anchor and we panted round the corner into Kirkwall bay and then into the marina at precisely 12:01. They go from noon to noon here and you might get charged an extra day.
Kirkwall is great, the centre is minutes away. Clothes shops, three supermarkets including a Lidl, takeaways of all descriptions and loads of tourists, the Boudica cruise ship was in.
The Launderama is brilliant too, clean sheets and unsalty clothes, super. All this horrible weather has meant that I have had to venture out of the wheelhouse far more that would be usual. I might end up having to get some waterproofs like what proper yachties wear.
It is going to get messy later in the week. The boats are soon to start arriving as Kirkwall is this year one of the legs of the Triangle race or is it called the Doublehander? The Nederlanders with meet with the Viking and much drinking will happen. I remember it well in Lerwick a couple of years ago. Kirkwall hasn't done it before and I don't think they know what is going to hit them. Forty five race boats are on their way with the usual entourage of hangers on and non race boats out for the summer holiday. Until they arrive Tutak is taking a siesta.
This vessel is an ideal shape for taking the waters round here. Get caught in a tide race with tumbling water, no worries.
So as we headed out from Whitehills the westerly turned out to be a north westerly so a nice reach turned into a nasty beat with a moderate sea, what joy. To top it all the engine cooling failed again and I thought I had cracked it. At least I knew what it was with the help of the high level clear topped water inlet strainer.
The conditions were such that with the wind and sea state the engine inlet was out of the water for a lot of the time. The time it was under water was not enough to pull the water through before it was out again. So the Morray firth was crossed without any help from the engine but with 26 knots over the deck and a clean bottom we made pretty good progress. As we neared Wick the sea calmed down as we came under the lee. The engine was started and the cooling was fine now it was back under water! I wonder whether I should put another intake on the opposite side and select the most appropriate.
Back to Wick, we were approaching the port hand turn inside the southern breakwater. As it was my first time the photos show us going out. Then you hang a right into the outer harbour, remarkably empty. And into the inner harbour and peace, except with the wind being offshore it wasn't un-peaceful anyway.
The first row of finger berths are reserved for visitors so I snook into one near the gangway but not too close.
They are very posh pontoons, look at the shape of the service pillar, E.U. no doubt, or maybe it's the Gaelic influence?
So we had another well deserved sleep and in the morning, about 1030, went to see the harbour master and do some shopping at the Co-op. Thus victualled we set off with a fair tide a few miles up the coast to Sinclair's bay to anchor for a day or two until the wind decided to come from the south. We rounded Noss head with its lighthouse close inshore to avoid the tumbley bits a bit further out. The hook was dropped close inshore and once more Tutak folded her wings away and tucked up. The wind howled in the night but being offshore we were very comfy thank you.
This middle part of the bay is sand dunes with a gap where a burn finds its way to the sea. Birds aplenty and we spent a happy time there with rest and repairs. The mizzen was up the whole time to keep us into the wind and dampen any tendency to Tutak to roll about as she does oh so well. Soon it will be time to take on the tail of the Pentland firth and make the crossing to Orkadia once more.
Peterhead is a wonderful place and I won't have anone say differently. After 20 hours tacking it is super to slip between its massive breakwaters and across the bay into the protected marina. I forgot about the wind and missed the pontoon I was aiming for and had to veer off for two up as there was a boat in the way.
After a nice sleep and some scran we cleaned up and dried out. Why they make boats with opening windows I don't know. They always seem to leak, especially when they'er under water. I might have to devise a method of covering them in inclement weather. All the effort I went to to prevent water ingress around the anchor winch seemed for nothing. It still found its way in, not as much but still some, bugger.
Peterhead is still busy with the supply vessels in and out. They are like the pickup trucks of the sea. We had some Germans, Belgians, Danes and Swedes yatchs in with us. The heating was on in the shower block which was much appreciated as the outside temperature was lower than the sea's. We stayed withing the clutches of Peterhead for two sleeps, well one and a half really but hey, then it was off for Whitehills.
I love Whitehills, don't know why, it's not particularly pretty or vibrant but I like it. It's exciting and fun to visit new places on the journey north but it is also good to re-visit places. Bertie Milne the harbour master is always on at me to polish the topsides. I alway say it's just not worth it as the Tollesbury mud will stain it right back to how it was. Graham was also there to meet me, he thought it was last year we chatted, had to tell him it was the year before.
Rattray head was its usual malevonent self. We left Peterhead to catch the fair tide round the head but that gave us wind against tide and it got a bit poppley for an hour or so. Once past Fraserburg things started to quiet down and the kettle was on for breakfast. Did I say we left at 0330hrs! Anyway after a couple of boiled eggs and soldiers and a mug of Marmite all was in balance.
I gave Bertie a call on the VHF once round the headland and asked if I could go on the slip and scrub off. He went off to check and called me back and all was arranged. It was nearly high water so we went straight in and tied against the wall and waited for the tide to drop.
As soon as it dropped enouth I donned my wetsuit and, armed with scrapers and scourers, climbed down the ladder set into the quayside and entered the water. It was a tad cold but the wetsuit and effort kept me warm for a while. By the time the tide had left the keel I was becoming hypothermic, limbs refused to work properly so a late lunch and a short sleep infront of the heater outlet were the order of the day.
Felling refreshed, well not really, we carried on with the scrubbing and scraping and by nightfall we were done in more ways than one. As the tide lifted us off the bottom the lines were cast off and the engine took us to the outer harbour and the luxury of a pontoon for the night. The morning saw us move to the fuel berth alongside the quay where Tutak had another deserved drink. It was back to the pontoon and further resting before the crossing of the Morray firth in the morning.
The visitors' pontoom in the outer harbour is open to a bit of surge. The inner harbour, less so but don't they pack 'em in!
There are a couple of right angled tight turns to make to get in but it's not too bad.
The posts with the white triangles mark the edge of the reef so don't stray out of the entrance channel! There is also a bit of silting which maybe a problem for deeper draught boats at low water but for Tutak, with her modest 1.2m, it was no problem.
So that was Whitehills for another year. Bertie is so helpful and with Tutak's bottom fettled we were a little faster too.
We saw out first puffin of the trip, they are quite difficult to capture as by the time the camera is ready they have gone, dived or flapped away in horror.
The is a song from my youth about fog on the Tyne by a band called Lindisfarne. Wasn't the bass drum hit with a rubber fish on TOTPs? So we turned in between the Tyne's massive breakwaters and up river past the fish quay and the Tyne ferry berth, calling the Royal Quays as we did, informing them of our need of bunkers. Calling from the ferry berth means they have time to prepare for the long walk from the marina office to the fuel berth in the river.
A very pleasant chap from Royal Quays came to give Tutak a drink and we had a lovely chat, especially as he used to drive the crane at the marina. They have a travel hoist now but we talked cranes, you know how it is. Tutak had been quite careful with her fuel and the fair winds had helped I guess as we had managed a fair bit of un-motor sailing.
The Marina is set in the old Albert Edward dock has that feel about it with the cruise terminal alongside. The best thing about the fuel berth is that it is 24hrs, but beware the nozzle is large and it dumps it in pretty quick and you need to be switched on not nattering about cranes.
We went back downriver past the ferry on the other side now. Doesn't she look sweet, I reckon I want one to make into a rather nice home. Past the red tower, so distinctive, marking the start of the narrows.
Swell and wind direction dictated that we anchor on the North Shields side this time, but I don't think it made that much difference. It was a bit rolly but mainly from the wash of small vessels.
The Nautica made her departure as the sun set over our anchorage under the ruins of the old priory.
The morning had us hauling the chain in and making sail before breakfast. We had to dodge a couple of salmon nets off Coquet island but this year the fishermen were very polite and we all got on fine.
Bringing the lighthouse on the inner Farne abeam we laid a course for the entrance to Lindisfarne harbour instead of our normal dogleg out to sea. This was our first time to Holy Island and I was looking forward to it, it's good to try new places. There are a couple of sets of leading marks to bring you in. You alter course from one to the other as they line up, sweet. One set are these monolith like structures.
The anchorage is superb and was very settled. In strong winds from some directions it can get a bit bumpy but that night was truly magical. With the brilliant sunset and the fairytale castle gave it a certain something.
I was going to stay there for a day or so but the weather window said now so we went. We took the Mouse Hole exit underneath the castle and past the old lime kilns, laying a course for St. Abb's head. On the way back with no deadline I would like to stay and have a proper look round like I did on the Farnes a couple of years ago.
Eyemouth we passed and then St. Abb's.
Where we altered course a wee bit for the crossing of the firth of Forth for Anstruthers.
Bass rock lined up with another monster on the mainland. We had a cracking if boisterous sail across the firth but it dawned on be that this was going to be a lee shore and the swell had built steadily during the day with wind from the southeast. The entrance was a little awkward as the waves tried to surf you sideways as you aim for a wee gap in the harbour wall perpendicular to the wave direction. Of course I should have set the camera up for filming but......
Perfect shelter once inside we tied up to a fishing boat in the outer harbour to investigate the inner. Local information had it that there had been some dredging and I was OK for us to voyage into the inner sanctum and alongside the pontoon. This harbour does dry and I woke in the morning sleeping on the side of the boat. Soft bottom mind. We left at seven the following morning as the forecast said the strong winds were going to be south of Montrose later. Later we should be well north of Montrose so off we went scraping the bottom. I was told there were plenty of pots to look out for, yeah I know, no he said, I mean there are a lot. He was right, we are used to plenty of pot markers but this looked like someone had emptied a children's ball pit into the sea.
We past these houses on Fife Ness as we rounded as close inshore as I dared as the tide should be covering any hard sticky up things called rocks and set a course for Peterhead 78nm away. Our course was North East and the wind was from the North East. The wind at this point was light so with just the main up we motored into the sea, no worries. Then it got misty and then it got foggy and then I put the fog horn on and it wailed for a few hours. Bell rock came and went but we never caught glimpse. By Scurdie Ness the wind had filled in and blown the fog bank south and another boat that had left Arbroath earlier reported that they were heading back in due to the fog. We were struggling now and were motor tacking with the main and mizzen at 20 degrees apparent. This is good as it takes some of the sting out of the waves and allows the sails to stabilise the boat and give another half a knot. By Stonehaven it was 22 knots apparent and I put the seat belt on and adjusted the suspension settings on my seat. By Aberdeen it had reached 40 knots....... no it had started to settle down for the night and not long after the sails came down along with the sea state and we were able to motor straight into it. We made Peterhead at 4 in the morning having left at seven the previous morning, all that tacking had put an extra 14nm on the bill. I love Peterhead, a port of refuge for the tired sailor with a safe entrance a calm berth.
Well isn't Whitby rather nice although folk don't say hello when you walk by. Maybe it's because it's a seaside town with lots and lots of visitors and chippies. There is a Co-op close to the marina and I made a few trips. I had some of those melamine plates on Tutak that had seen better days so we went for some plain white crockery. Proper job.
Here is Tutak, quietly snuggled up against the pontoon with a slight list to starboard, the new crockery is quite heavy.
There was a bit of dredging going on in the harbour with a super bit of kit. A built in 360 excavator on a pontoon with spud legs. The operator scooped up the spoil and dumped it into a hopper barge with two big outboards on the back. I say outboards but not as we know it. They are big blue boxes with engines it,s bolted on the stern deck of the barge with outdrive legs reaching into the water. Brilliant idea.
Monday came and I walked the few hundred metres to the boatyard just upriver. The book says they are riggers and northern agents for one of the mast people so. True enough but they were short staffed and couldn't get down to see me today. I explained I was keen not to spend too long as I had a friend to catch...... but if I could get the track off the mast he might be able to sort something out. So I returned to the boat and got the hacksaw out. The blade wend behind the track as it was so loose and only two of the six rivets were actually holding it on.
Taking the track back to see Stephen again at the yard we decided to go up a size on the rivets as the old ones had worked in the mast and made the holes oversize. In a few ticks I had the correct rivets in my paw and a rather nice riveting tool by Gesipa. It pulls up the rivet super easily and doesn't jar when the head breaks off. I left a hefty deposit for the loan of this tool and I don't blame him. I would have still been in pocket had I run off with it. It only took a few minutes to drill out the holes and get the track back on, what joy.
Stephen, Coates marine's owner, didn't ask any money apart from the rivets and was most helpful. Naturally I left a little something to say a big thank you anyway.
So after another trip to the supermaket we made ready for the mornings tide in the morning and took the ten o'clock bridge swing.
The double breakwaters at Whitby seem to work well and dissipates the surge nicely with very little working its way up river. I suppose northerly gale things might be different.....
So once outside we turned left and headed across the Tees bay for the Tyne. Ships aplenty at anchor waiting their turn to feed the fires of hell or whatever they do on the River Tees.
You can see that the sea had that oily leftover swell. Not a lot of wind but sloppy and we banged about all day and were glad to reach the Tyne.
Where were we, oh yes, just left Harwich heading norf. Sails went up, well actually the log said we sailed off the anchor with just the genoa rolled out. The main went up after we had cleared a bit of the mess up. The wind headed us mid afternoon and we had to motorsail for a while. I did think about going into Lowestoft for a few hours kip but the sea was such that dropping the hook in Yarmouth Roads seemed a likely proposition. The wind eventually came round to the east and there was going to be nice shelter behind the Scroby sands so we prepared to drop the hook just north of Great Yarmouth pier close inshore. For some reason I decided to take the route via the forehatch with the anchor winch handle. I took the cover off and dropped it behind me and freed off the chain and dropped the handle into the slot. Doing this with the previously dirtyed chain meant that my hands were now muddy so I closed the hatch and made my way back to the stern via the deck. Upon reaching the cockpit I washed my hands over the low stern section of the hull and went for the old towel hanging up in the wheelhouse. The door was locked, bugger.
I had somehow managed to lock myself out of the boat with the autopilot taking us up the beach in about ten minutes. I had no tools, nothing to take a hatch off or a window out. I doubt I could have done it in the time anyway. Luckily I had cut the speed to slow ahead so the eventual crunch would be lessened. I thought that if I smashed the stern window I would be able to reach the bolt holding the (now strengthened) door shut. What to use, ah the heavy steel bar that is the anchor winch handle. I went forward to retrieve it from the foredeck making sure that I held onto it tightly. I turned my face away and bashed the glass. The bar just bounced off. I tried again and again but nothing happened. I used the pointed end, but it would not break. I used two hands and clubbed it, I knew it was toughened but this was ridiculous. By this time the beach was getting pretty close.
It was obvious that I was not going to get in this way so I tried to use the steel bar as a jemmy and prise the door open. I smashed and scraped the teak door frame and got the lever in and applied some force and some more and the door gave a little. Repositioning the lever gave me some extra purchase and I managed to get a gap large enough for me to knock the engine control into neutral. By this time the beach was imminent and we were fortunate that there were no groynes in this section. I reached for my "ready" pliers and pulled the bolt back and opened the door fully, we then made a hasty turn into some deeper water.
I was shaken, quite badly. I have used the fore hatch to access the foredeck on many occasions. Was this the fist time the door had been bolted, I doubt it. The door has to be bolted open or shut or it slides as the boat rolls, and we all know Tutak rolls! The strengthened frame actually helped in the end as it gave me a strong point to jemmy the door against.
The door has lost some of its top veneer any way but this just looks like someone has broken in, oh, they did, sorry.
The white blurs just to the top and right of the bollard are the only evidence of me trying to break the glass. I has bruised the surface right enough. I had an exhausted sleep and woke quite refreshed in the morning. We left Yarmouth Roads at half after seven and goose winged our way round the corner of Norfolk past this little boat shed at Caister I think.
Would it be an inshore lifeboat perhaps? On and on past Sea Palling. I once anchored behind the rock breakwaters there a few years ago but not now. The sand has built up behind, which is what they were put there for I guess? After Bacton and the gas terminal we started to pull away from the shore heading for the south race buoy.
Guess who we bumped into? I don't know when the Patricia overtook us but there she was, heading in the opposite direction.
I was considering Grimsby but the weather was good as was the wind so we carried on outside of the outersand buoy and the big ship anchorage east of the mouth of the Humber. Darkness making it easier to spot the ships' headings along with the AIS of course. Oh I forgot to tell you that as I was trying to smash the window I noticed the chart plotter had gone off. I was a bit worried about this as it is like having another crew member along with Samantha the autopilot. I eventually traced the fault to a blown fuse in the negative side. I remember seeing a packet of those fuses in my workshop back home and wondering what they were for. Luckily I had one spare! Dawn broke and the tide was against us for Flamborough Head so we headed for a few hours rest anchored near the South Landing. Not a good place with the wind direction and I had to cling onto my berth. At least I could shut my eyes for a couple of hours. I have last years almanacs and being a cheapskate I decided to work all my tides from Dover to avoid buying updated books. Bad move I think, especially when you are short handed. You need to be able to look up tides quickly when plans change. So just after ten in the morning we gathered in the anchor chain, nice and clean this time and headed for the head. It was a bit lumpy and got lumpier. First time this year that I had experienced a "bit of swell". I was a bit unnerved by it to tell the truth but as I settled down I reached for the camera and took a quick vid. Sadly the worst was over but there you go.
Round the headland and past Filey Brigg, Scarborough and onto Runswick bay to anchor. That was until I heard the forecast and Whitby was the sound choice. Never been in before. Checked it out on the way back last year in the dark and was pleased with the well lit approach. And so we duly went round the offing buoy and headed for the outer breakwaters with the strong cross tide. It always seems a bit strange to be heading somewhere completely different from where you want to go. At five in the afternoon they swung the bridge for me and Ian from the marina took my lines.
We managed 158Nm from Yarmouth roads to Whitby. I was due for a rest. I slept solid for ten hours and stopped in bed the rest of the day more or less and watched the Canadian grand prix practises' and qualifying. Whitby has a large super market just by the marina and a steam train tooting takes one back to far away times, quaint.
After a few days on the boat, land felt like there was an earthquake, 5 on the Richter scale, going on. But jobs have to be done, I noticed that the spinnaker pole track on the mast was working loose. It needed to come off and be re-riveted with some proper rivets. As luck will have it there is a riggers a few metres up the river. I will see if they can do it on Monday.
Here are a few shots of Whitby.
Looking back to the inner breakwaters.
Looking up river to the swing bridge, from the waiting pontoon at the fish pier. The marina beyond.
A couple of boats waiting for the bridge, outbound.
Starting to swing.
One section swung open now. Larger vessels will have the other side opened too. Sometimes, when it is busy there is two way traffic with both sections open.
View from the marina up the hill on the east side.
